The Paris Fashion Week is over, and now we can take a look back at what went on. It was one of the most hectic Fashion Weeks of the last seasons, and if you don’t believe so, check out American designer Rick Owens’ models: stomp dancing dancers (if you still don’t know what stomp dancing is, google is there to help you) who had to learn a 12 minutes long “choreography”. Real size models screaming and moving like real Amazons, most of them Afro-Americans, right when controversy about the lack of black models on the catwalks is at its highest moment. An innovative way to present clothing, which, aside from letting the design part stand out, caused more than some assistant to break into tears.
But these models weren’t the only ones to bring dance onto the catwalk. Gaultier recreated a dancing contest where the models were dancing to the beats of the 80’s, represented not only by music, but also in style, because the leather, the fringes and the tulle were the protagonists of the parade. We also mustn’t forget the presence, on magnificent jackets and bags, of his mythical stripes. A delight for the people attending the event.
Music was also protagonist during the show of the duo Viktor & Rolf, where models walked on the notes of a Pink Floyd remix, the perfect soundtrack for a sober collection of high school teens, wrapped up in black, white and blue blazers and gowns.
Even though some of the major brand’s stagings – like Givenchy’s car crash in the middle of the street, Chanel’s art gallery or Moncler’s skating gorilla – really impressed us, the biggest news this week was Marc Jacobs’ farewell to Vuitton. And of course, his goodbye couldn’t be more elegant, with a small retrospective dedicated to his trajectory for the French brand, as a whole rather gloomy and eccentric, vaguely resembling a burial (well, we wouldn’t really mind it was our own, with all those feathers, glitters, eroticism and exhibitionism that we love so much). An adieu that closes an era, a season in which the great brands placed their bets on designers who would later renew the world of fashion industry.
Such a triumphal farewell can only serve as a welcome for a new generation of designers: curious about the first signing? Well, it was JW Anderson for Loewe.
So we can already assure you: if this Fashion Week was somehow frantic, have your seat belt fastened for next year, because there are some turbulences coming.
- Jose Carayol
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